Occasionally, you will need to inspect your fuel filter, be certain not to do this around any open flames or other sources of ignition of fumes from the tank are very flammable. Clean or replace the fuel filter as necessary according to your owner’s manual.

Make sure that the chain on your saw does not rotate on the bar when the saw is idle. If the chain moves when the chainsaw is idle, you must adjust the saw’s idle using the proper adjustment screw on the carburetor. Check your owner’s manual for more detailed information on your saw’s idle screw placement and adjustment procedure.

If you cannot get the chain to stop rotating at idle, take the saw to your authorized dealer for the necessary adjustments and repairs before using your saw.

Check your muffler and spark arrestor according to your manual’s maintenance schedule. If you find that the spark arrestor is clogged or dirty, clean the part or replace it. Operating your saw with a clogged spark arrestor can cause serious damage to your saw’s engine and never operate your chainsaw without the spark arrestor.

As the sparks from the muffler can easily start a fire, the bar, chain and sprocket will require frequent inspection and upkeep and are some of the highest maintenance components of your chainsaw.

There are 2 types of sprockets commonly used on chainsaws today: rim type sprockets and spur sprockets. Sprockets will wear as the chainsaw’s used and require replacement. A good rule of thumb for replacement is to install a new sprocket after every two chains that you wear out.

The method for replacing your sprocket will depend on the mounting design used on your chainsaw. Many models, use an outboard design that is very easy to service, even in the field. Simply remove the E clip and the washer and the rims slip off the clutch drum and the drum and bearing will slip off the crankshaft. Now you can easily clean your parts and reinstall them, making sure to add a slight amount of high temperature grease to the needle, bearing and crankshaft. When reinstalling the drum on your saw, rotate it about one turn to make sure you’ve engaged the oil pump drive. Slip on the rim on, reinstall the washer and E clip. Other styles may require the removal of the clutch first with special tools to access the sprocket for maintenance. Check your owner’s manual for the procedure to properly replace your sprocket.

Following these procedures and the directions in the operators manual will ensure your chainsaw enjoys a long life and that the equipment is as safe to use as possible. Ignore them at your peril.

When you are ready to service the bar and chain, pick a large, flat area to perform the work such as the tailgate of a pickup truck. Remember the chain has sharp edges so always be sure to wear sturdy work gloves when handling the bar and chain. With the chainsaw engine turned off and the muffler cooled down and the chain brake released, use your bar wench to loosen and remove the nuts on the chain’s sprocket cover.

Remove the cover, release the bar from the chain tensioners adjustment pin, slide the bar back and remove the chain and the bar. Check your sprocket and drum for wear and make sure that they rotate freely. If the sprocket is significantly worn, you should replace it at this point. It’s a good idea to clean away the saw dust and debris that is built up on the saw with a rag. Even an old toothbrush can come in handy for the task. Clean the inside portion of the cover around the clutch drum area, taking special care. Clean thoroughly around the automatic chain oiler’s discharge area, not allowing anything to become lodged in the portal.

Your bar will also need to be checked and maintained. If your bar has a roller or sprocket post, make sure that the roller or sprocket nose rotates freely. Some bars may have a grease hole at the tip that will require greasing periodically. Check your owner’s manual for the maintenance procedure for your chainsaw’s guide bar.

With a rag, wipe the bar down, removing any debris. With the bar groove cleaning tool, like the one shown here, starting from the tip of the bar, remove the debris that’s become impacted in the bar rails and remember to always wear gloves when handling your bar as the bar rails can become very sharp as they become worn.

The wayward end of the bar will have a series of holes and slots. These are the oil inlet holes, the chain tensioners, adjust pinhole and the bar stud slot. It is extremely important that these areas are completely free from dirt and impacted debris. Through wear, you may find that your bar rails will form a rollover edge. If this occurs, with a flat file, smooth the edges down. Again, making sure to wear gloves during the process. If the bar is severely worn, you will need to replace it.