Also when filing, the filing guide should be held at a 90-degree angle to the bar or level, tilting the filing guide even slightly can result in the misfiled chain that won't function properly. On the top of your filing guide, you'll see lines inscribed into the metal. The lines kept parallel to the guide bar when sharpening each tooth will result in the proper angle required for the tooth's cutting edge when used properly. Your filing guide will help assure a proper and consistent cutting angle and filing depth on each tooth. This is how a properly sharpened cutter should look. Here is a cutter that has been improperly filed and has a severe back slope, a sign possibly indicating that too large a file was used. This chain has a severe hook indicating that too small a round file was used or that the file was pushed down too hard and allowed to drop too far down into the tooth during the filing process. Here you see a top plate with too shallow of an angle and this is a top plate with too severe an angle.

Now that you have the proper filing guide have determined your starting point, begin your filing. Remember to count your strokes, the amount of pressure you are applying to file and do not drag your file back across the cutter. The right and left hand cutters alternate so you will need to file every other tooth from one side of the bar or all of the right hand cutters first for instance. Then change to the other side to sharpen all the left hand cutters again, remembering to keep the angle and depth the same on all teeth.

Once all of your cutters have been sharpened on both sides, you will need to check the depth gauge's height and file down the tang if needed. Place the depth gauge tool on the chain, as shown here, allowing the tooth's depth gauge to protrude in the slot of the tool. If any portion of the depth gauge protrudes above the slot of the tool that portion will need to be filed down level with the depth gauge tool using the flat file. Perform this same procedure for every tooth. If the depth gauges are not maintained and are too high, not allowing enough clearance, this will result in poor performance and result the chain's ability to cut. If you didn't use the proper depth gauge tool and filed the depth gauges too low, below the manufacturers specifications, this will results in a chain that cuts too aggressively, possible causing harm to your saw and increasing the risk of backlash, making the chainsaw very unsafe, which can result in a serious or fatal injury to the operator.

If you have filed your chain's depth gauge several times, you may find the leading edge of the depth gauge will need to be dressed to conform to an angle similar to how it looked when it was new. Stihl depth gauges have a line scribed into the metal showing the proper angle for the leading edge for you to follow. If you don't maintain this angle, it can result in excessive vibrations when cutting as well as diluting the low kickback properties on some chains.

For some people, sharpening a chain is uncomfortable or even intimidating. If this is the case with you, you might want to keep one or more spare chains that are properly sharpened with your while you are working on your chainsaw. As your chain becomes dull, you can easily replace the dull chain with one of your spares.

When you are done with your work, return your dull chain to your authorized dealer where they can be properly sharpened on specially designed on an electric chain grinder and you will be ready to cut again with a set of freshly sharpened chains.

Next, check your chain brake to make sure it is functioning properly and that it engages and disengages. Like an automobile brake, your chainsaw's chain brake will incur wear each time it is engaged. The amount of wear will vary depending on things such as usage or even the conditions in which the saw is used. Excessive wear will reduce the effectiveness of the chain brake and can ultimately render it inoperable.

Begin your own inspection; you should always turn your chainsaw into your authorized dealer to have the chain brake inspected according to the schedule form in your manual. With the engine running at idle, engage the chain brake by moving your left wrist forward while gripping the handle then accelerate the engine to full throttle for no more than about 30 seconds before premature wear to the braking system or harm to the engine. The chainsaw must not rotate. If the chain brake fails to function properly, it's imperative that you take your chainsaw to an authorized dealer for the proper repairs prior to using your chainsaw again.

Now that the limbs have been removed and the area around the log is cleared, you can begin bucking the log to the desired lengths. If your log is still suspended by lower branches, your job may be easier if you begin bucking from the top of the tree, as long as you are not cutting above shoulder height or have to reach. Then begin working down toward the butt. With the tree suspended off the ground, usually the sections you cut will fall effortlessly to the ground. Use the saw spikes to steady the saw while cutting. It's also a good idea to position your body away the uncut portion of the log. This will create a clear zone for you to move in the even of the log were to shift or move.

You can work like this to the point where the tree is suspended by a lower limb. At this point, you will need to cut the lower limb and let the tree settle to the ground. Be very cautious when doing this and predetermine which way the log will drop or roll when the bottom limbs are removed. You'll want to position yourself on the opposite side of the logs movement and be cautious of your bar pinching in the cut as these limbs will usually be under a considerable amount of pressure.

If you were bucking a log that is laying on the ground, there are a few things you'll need to know to perform this work properly.

First, remember that if you touch the ground with a moving chainsaw even if it's for a split second, this will be enough to dull your chain. Since the wood is laying on the ground, you will need to be cautious of this. Here you see the operator making a series of cuts in the log, not quite cutting completely through in order not to hit the ground with the chain. Once he has completed the series of cuts, he'll roll the log over 180 degrees and finish the cut. This technique is a good one to use when the log is laying flat on even ground. But often times the ground the log is lying on is not flat and requires a variety of cuts to properly buck the log.

This log is suspended with the weight focused in the middle of the log where you want to make your cut. As you cut this log, the log will begin to drop in the middle and your cut will begin to close up. If you don't immediately remove your bar from the cut, it will be pinched. To avoid this, first make a relief cut on the topside of the log. Then begin an under bucking cut from the bottom in such a manner that the cuts will intersect. When done properly, you'll be able to buck the log without pinching your guide bar but this takes a lot of practice and skill and is usually best left for a professional chainsaw operator.

This log is suspended but the weight of the tree is on the ends of the log. This means if you were to buck the log, the log will tend to move upwards when cut. If this is the case, you'll do just the opposite that you did on the previous log by making your relief cut on the bottom and the finishing cut from the top.

On either method, you can always use your plastic wedges to help keep the logs from closing in the final cuts.